The Icefields Cometh.  We drove through northern Banff, into Jasper National Park.
The weather was not great, cloudy and foggy in the higher elevations, and definitely getting colder. We were on Highway 93, the Icefields Parkway, which runs alongside the Columbia Icefield and the Athabaska Glacier.

At the icefield (definition: a body of ice that glaciers flow out of in different directions), we stopped briefly at the large (read crowded) visitor center. Snow was falling and the fog so dense that we could barely make out the Icefield right next to us. There were huge Snocoaches — busses with monster tires, that drove people right out onto the Athabaska glacier, and let them out for a walk. Well, no thanks for us; I wasn't up for an ice walk in the fog. But on our return trip south: we got a better look at the glacier and several others.

Highlights on the drive were several beautiful glacial lakes — Hector, Bow, Peyto, Waterfowl. And the ever-present, ever-pretty Athabaska River. And what nature had created around Athabaska Falls was amazing. But best of all was seeing White Goats traversing the narrow ledges high up a mountainside. They are the neatest animals — they have split hooves that are kind of rubbery and can grip the ground like suction cups. We watched through the binoculars in awe as they defied gravity.

As we neared the Jasper townsite, our first stop was at the Whistlers, or Whistler Mountain, where we took a tram to the top. As we boarded, about 20 people crammed into the small space. Then the operator said, "Just want to tell you folks I can take 35!" Oy, let's go before more people come, we all thought. The ride was a bit daunting, hanging high over the steep incline; at one point we stalled and the tram rocked in the wind. But, not to worry, we were soon at the top. The summit was barren, dome-shaped, and ages ago was covered in ice.

Despite a new snowfall and being at over 2400 meters elevation, it wasn't nearly as cold as we anticipated. In fact, the wind has disappeared, the sun was shining, and we enjoyed the stark, white landscape and the glorious views of Jasper and the Athabaska & Miette valleys below.

The Jasper townsite was pretty, not nearly as big as Banff. But had enough shops to keep me happy. We were staying just north of town, at Pyramid Lake.

We stopped at nearby Patricia Lake first and found an incredible story. A sign explained that during WWII the Allies entertained ideas to stop the sinking of ships. One came from Geoffrey Pyke, a mental hospital patient. His plan: build an aircraft carrier of ICE, that wouldn't burn if torpedoed, or melt in the North Atlantic. So in 1943, there at nice cold Patricia Lake, Pyke supervised the construction of an ice boat; Operation Habakkuk it was called. Pykecrete — ice that had a mixture of wood chips, moss, sawdust and paper frozen in — was used, but didn't end up being buoyant enough. It wouldn't have floated above the surface with its planned weight of 2 million tons. Add to that the 2000 crew and 20 aircraft and well, the project failed. But can you imagine ...! The remains of a shed where the prototype was built, and a plaque, are at the bottom of the lake.

Our cabin at the Pyramid Lake Resort was roomy, very cozy, and the dining room fare was up to eastern Canadian standards— superb. We looked forward to the next day and exploring around the region.

But then it was Tuesday morning, September 11. I turned on CNN, the only American station available, and for the next few hours we watched in shock as horrible events happened at home.

We finally got out later, commiserated with our waitress (all the Canadians we'd speak with were very upset, and sympathetic) and decided to drive out Maligne Lake Road. The beautiful scenery, the hike in the Canyon, the communing with sheep — all nice, but such a pall was cast. We stayed tuned to CBC radio wherever we could get it; the Canadian reporting and views were excellent, I thought.

That road was known for the wildlife — no moose sightings, but plenty of bighorn sheep. These guys were all over the road near Medicine Lake, and had no fear of people. Medicine Lake takes on different looks depending on the season ... in the fall (where we were) the water level drops through sink holes; in the spring it rises again from runoff. Much of the lake bottom was dry, giving the area a special feel, like you were privy to the secret of what lay under the water.

Further south on Maligne Lake Road was, you guessed it: Maligne Lake. It's the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies — 22 kilometers long; the light and reflections had a beautiful quality there.

And then it was time to head south again, to warmer weather and more spectacular places.

To Southern B.C. and Alberta

Views from Jasper — click on images

Canadian Rockies & Prairie Main