Hawaii, the Volcanoes

This was it, last day on Hawaii before we had to leave later in the afternoon. Not enough time! Biggest island, least time to spend — who planned this trip anyway? Oh well, just be happy to be here at all ... now let's move it. We checked out of our hotel in Hilo and headed south — volcanoes ahead! And more of that fascinating lava.

We entered Volcanoes National Park, an area that covered the two, still-active volcanoes on Hawaii: Moana Loa and Kiluaea. At the visitor's center we got the latest volcanic conditions (nothing dangerous) before heading out on Crater Rim Drive, which encircles the Kilauea caldera. Amazing, amazing landscape. Kilauea has erupted many times in recent years, with lava traveling the surface and through underground tubes. We saw vast fields of lava, marked with the dates of their origin. The lava takes two forms as it solidifies — the ropey, shiny lava is called pahoehoe, the rough-edged cindery type is aa.

I was mesmerized ... and exulted in the surreal beauty of these lava plains. Spectacular, psychedelic swirls and spirals and unimaginable patterns this lava took on, as it "froze" from its molten state. Such enigmatic stuff ... while destroying everything in its path, the lava makes its way to the coast where it has enlarged the island by a couple hundred acres. And from the devastation, new green growth pushed up from below. Fair is fair — it taketh away, then it giveth back ...

Though we were in the Kilauea crater, there were smaller craters within that. One of these, Halemaumau, has seen the most eruptions, and was once a large lake of molten lava (until 1924). Now it's a giant gaping pit about 1600 meters wide and 85 meters deep, and its steam explosions have showered the surrounding barren rim with rock. And we could smell the strong odor of sulfuric gas — supposedly Pele, the fire goddess, keeps that coming.

Finishing the Rim loop, we headed down the slope of Kilauea on Chain of Craters Road. This ran along the eastern rift zone, where the constant build up of molten rock has caused unstable sections of the volcano's flank to collapse and fall towards the sea. This created cliffs (pali) streaked with different shades and textures of lava, and new vegetation.

The road turned as we reached the coast and up ahead was an interesting site: a tremendous cloud of white smoke — no, steam! right at the ocean's edge. An underground lava flow was spilling out into the cool water. You can bet we're headed thataway ...

We drove as close to the steam as possible, then had to hike over a mile to get to the source. It was a long, hot walk and we got a natural steam bath as we approached the spume. Along the way we crossed beautiful black sand created by the explosion of lava meeting ocean over time. There was a lava bridge, white-hot rock, and the firey trickle of lava. We couldn't get too close as it was extremely hot ... very neat, to be so close to a unique natural phenomenon.

Continuing on our way ... we came to Kalapana. Large sections of the nice town were destroyed by lava in 1986. We saw where Highway 130 came to an abrupt end, encased in lava.

Kalapana beach was a mass of lava and dead branches. Later, I bought a video that told the sad story. It was very affecting to see families standing helplessly by, while the lava slowly approached and burned their homes. The unfortunate price of living on the side of a volcano.

Our time was running out, and we reluctantly started to head back north, on route 137 along the coast. More pretty black sand beaches, and quaint, unique Hawaiian homes.

If only we had another day ... but it was back to Hilo to catch our next inter-island flight. By the way, this was Thanksgiving Day ... and I was very thankful to be where we were at that moment. And, happily, we still had plenty of time left in Hawaii ... on to Maui.

Gallery...Hawaii