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Stop: Hawaii, a.k.a. the Big Island. The Big Island is the most diverse, in climate and terrain, of all the Hawaiian islands. Some people are shocked when they see the barren landscape of lava on the west coast and not lush tropical vegetation. Well, travel around the island and you'll find something of everything. From pristine beaches to tropical rainforests to active volcanoes. That's why it's so fascinating and why we'd wanted to come back for more. We took Highway 19 north, along the coast. Before turning west we took a side trip to the Waipi'o Valley. Then cut west across miles of Parker Ranch land. Beautiful rolling country, with horses and cattle. You don't think of Hawaii as cowboy country, but there it was. We were going to the Kohala coast, where there are many ritzy resorts and golf courses, and not much else amidst the lava fields. The Waikoloa Beach Marriott Outrigger (we got a good deal) for three nights, was our destination. Right off, walking into the lobby, we knew we weren't at the Coconut Beach Resort in Kauai anymore. This was a dress-up, look good, impress someone, place. We straggled in in our shorts and sneakers. Everything was very nice, but after our comfortable stay in Kauai, it all seemed a bit much. The restaurant was very expensive, so no more breakfast buffets for us. Many people seemed to just hang out at the hotel pool and beach area and at the shopping plaza across the street. I guess that's what a destination resort means. Crazy and sacreligious to me, to be in Hawaii and not leave the hotel grounds! Coast to Mountain. The weather was hot and dry, so the coast was the place to be. We hiked to Kiholo Bay, over mushy gravel to a lava-encrusted beach. It was a pretty area with palm trees swaying, where folks live simply, right on the beach. Kids in dreadlocks were running around and men were fishing from rocks out in the bay. I spotted some cowries amidst the lava/coral rocks and got involved in that. Shell hunting is so addictive ... [See Map for Locations] After the beach hike we decided to make a 180-degree turn. We went inland on the infamous Saddle Road, a bumpy crested road that cuts between the two largest mountains on Hawaii: Mauna Loa (13,677 ft) and Mauna Kea (13,796 ft). Part of the route cuts through more Parker Ranch land (225,000 acres in all). We were pretty much alone on the road, the way we like it. When we got to Mauna Kea Road, we turned left. The plan was to drive the 14.7 miles to the summit. We stopped at the small visitor center about six miles up. Here dire warning signs try to discourage cars from driving to the summit. The road is mostly loose gravel and without guardrails. So, we asked one of the few visitors around if he'd gone up. He had and recommended it — just take it slow, he advised. So up we went.
It was a bit daunting in some spots, seeing only sky and clouds ahead and to our right as we climbed. But wow, this was something. At the top there were many giant, superpowered telescopes (including Keck and U of Hawaii scopes). The air is super clear and considered maybe the best viewing location in the world. The landscape was beautiful and lunar-like, but does the moon have these stunning colors? — soft shades of tan, orange and brown. We took some deep breaths, drank water and put on another layer of sunscreen. We wanted to hike the trail to the actual summit. It didn't look far, maybe a half mile or less. But it involved climbing, so it took some effort at that altitude. Then we were there, on what really felt like the top of the world — the tallest mountain on earth at 30,000+ feet. Of course, 17,000 of those feet are below sea level, but who's counting? It was cool but not cold, and calm: perfect! Clouds floated below us, and Mauna Loa loomed just to the south. There was a heiau, an elevation marker and us, alone to enjoy an incredible place. Kohala Coast. The next morning we went to the hotel's Anaeho'omalu beach — the snorkeling was supposed to be good. We got all the gear and flopped into the water. A woman coming out said there was a sea turtle nearby. Oh boy, I'd been dying to see one. Of course I hadn't snorkeled in years (or ever?) and had a hard time convincing my brain that I could breathe underwater. So I was gasping about, trying to take underwater pictures and stay above the coral in the shallow waters. Then, we saw him several yards away. I tried to find him underwater, but it was murky. I swam around looking, then whoa, it was only when I was right next to him that I saw him. It scared us both a little. I stood up and got a better view from above. A beautiful sea turtle, and I immediately bestowed my "animal of the trip" honor on him. Enough snorkeling for me — Peter kept at it while I climbed on a concrete pier wanting to find more sea turtles. I didn' t see any in the water, but just a ways down the shore — look! A sea turtle sunning on the rocks! Off I went, without my sandals, ouching my way across sharp lava rocks to get a closer view before he disappeared. A few other people were homing in on him, too. But our turtle was pretty blasé and stayed put until we got a little too close. Then he dragged himself off the rocks and slid into the water. So neat, I was in love with them and their big, sad eyes. Back at the beach I realized my hand was in pain. I looked at my finger and saw two black spots partly embedded in my skin. Yikes, what's that? I went to the beach rental place and asked for some hydrogen peroxide to clean the wounds. There I learned that I had a couple sea urchin (wana) spines in my finger, the result of my snorkeling misadventures. The woman told me not to pull them out. They are barbed and can do more harm than leaving them to dissolve on their own. Well, I didn't like that option. I was able to get one out with my nails and had the woman remove the other with tweezers. Lots of blood, but whew. Those tiny things were painful. North Kohala. Leaving the turtles behind, we headed out again. I dropped Peter off to play golf at the Waimea Country Club, then I went north — up Kohala Mountain Road. The road runs along the spine of Kohala Mountain and you have spectacular views from 3,000 feet of cattle grazing on the green mountain slope and of ocean and coast below. At one point you can see Maui (Haleakala) 30 miles away. [See Map for Locations] At the northern tip of the island near Hawi, I turned east to go to the end of the line. The Pololu Valley, another deep valley with dramatic cliffs stops the road, quite emphatically. The north Kohala area was lush and beautful, more what you think Hawaii should look like. And the small towns (Kapa'au and Hawi) have quaint churches, buildings and storefronts. I did some shopping in a couple antique and gift shops. Kona Sights. Time to leave the Kohala coast for our next destination on the opposite end of the island. But first, since we were going right by Kailua-Kona, we stopped to look around. [See Map for Location] Kona is a pretty, quaint town, especially the main road that runs along Kailua Bay. There are huge old shade trees, historic buildings and shops galore. It was a feel-good place, very relaxed. We wandered around, found some books, clothes and pizza. Leaving town we drove down Alii Drive, an impressive area with fancy private homes and condos, and swank resorts. Back on the highway south, it turned from a four-lane dragway into a winding two-lane road. We were in the shadow of Mauna Loa and in the heart of Kona coffee country. Just a few small towns with not much going on from Kona south all the way to the tip and around. No more ritzy resorts, and the terrain was green and steep down to the coast. There were still old lava flows from Mauna Loa, but nothing like on the northern coast. We were seeing yet another side of the Big Island ... |
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