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This would be a day unlike any other; we'd be all over the map ... literally and figuratively. Different countries, different temperature zones, different terrain, different modes of transportation. We arrived in Port Angeles on a sunny morning, the focal point and launch pad for our widely and wildly fluctuating activities.
The higher
we climbed, the wider the panorama became. The Olympic Mountains are
anywhere The temperature
was dropping noticeably, according to our car thermometer and my bare
legs. It would
have been nice to do some hiking here, but our time was limited ...
as was my clothing. We didn't do much more than scratch the surface
of the Olympic National Park, as we skirted around its edges traveling
north, then took this drive to the ridge. It also includes more than
60 miles of Pacific coastline still a protected wilderness that
included Kalaloch and La Push. So, from mountains, to rain forest, to
ocean, it had it all. As we headed back north to Port Angeles, I studied the ferry schedules. Yes, we could catch the 12:15 boat to Victoria, hooray. There were two lines running over to Vancouver Island, one took vehicles, the other just passengers. We raced into town, down to the waterfront, and got on the Victoria Express, a 105-foot passenger ferry that made the crossing in just an hour. And fortunately we only needed a driver's license to get into Canada and back ... let's go! The ride across the Strait of Juan de Fuca was great fun, fast. Looking back at the Washington coast we saw the Olympic Mountains we had just come from, now with a cloudy topping. Now, what could we do in Victoria in a few hours without a car? I looked at some brochures one particularly got my interest: Experience the magic of Vintage Rail Travel ... trains! trestles! tunnels! It promised a comprehensive eco-tour of many historic and natural points of interest, crossing over trestles 300 ft. above a canyon. Well, what more could we want? So that became the plan. It was sunny and bright as the ferry pulled into Victoria Harbor. We could see the magnificent Empress Hotel, built in 1908 (it looked like a younger sister of the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City, though not quite as impressive). And Parliament was on the right elegant architecture. And the atmosphere! Could there be a more pristine, idyllic city? As we walked around perimeter of the harbor (a hub of activity every kind of water vessel imaginable, including sea planes taking off and landing), the temperature was in the 80s; it was glorious. Now, I'll get to those flowers I mentioned earlier ... hanging on every cluster street lamp they were: gorgeous huge multi-specimen flower baskets. These are a Victoria trademark, and this is the flower capital of Canada. Flower boxes and baskets also lined sidewalks and rooftops, everywhere you looked. We had lunch in a sunny atrium cafe near the train station, then got on board for our adventure a ride up to Malahat Mountain. Where? you ask. I don't know, to this day. To sum up the trip most succinctly: we saw backyards and trees while trapped for 2+ hours in a dark train car. We couldn't hear any of the guide's commentary because the train noise was too loud. Yes, there were a few nice views (and Arbutus trees) ...but, in retrospect, we should have stayed in Victoria. Oh well, can't guess right all the time. As we
pulled out of the harbor, the captain warned the full boat load that
those up on deck might want to find seats on the lower level. Hmmm,
on this beautiful day?
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