We had one more place to go while the light still held … We drove out to the end of Cap Barre, the headland closest to Rocher Percé (this may also be considered Mont Joli). The cliff slanted upward, like a launch ramp, before dropping off sharply. From the edge of one side, the Rock and Île Bonaventure were showing yet another look in the sultry late-day light.

On the Cap's other side were wooden steps that led down to the water's edge. The tide was going out, so we had some room, though not much, between the ocean and the cliff wall to walk on the rocky beach. (See Water's Edge slide show.)

Walking was precarious on the slippery stones as we rounded the end of the cliff. This brought us to the base of Rocher Percé, a few hundred feet in front of us. This was my favorite view of all we'd had so far. Its massiveness really struck me from this vantage point; the Rock was an awesome sight. It towered above us with a presence as regal as a giant ship (very Titannic-like, though much larger). The sun was low and there was a stunning glow to the air and water.

As we sat in the dining room of the hotel later that evening, we saw silhouettes of a few people making their way to the Rock as the low tide now allowed passage over to it. I was tempted to make the trek myself, but thought better of it. We had been close enough.

The next day was sunny, beautiful, and we backtracked north to Prével, for a round of golf. We travelled again, this time in sunshine, through the cliffs just north of Percé and along the coast of the Baie de Malbaie.

The Fort-Prével Golf Course was on the grounds of a 1936 WWII outpost, on the Atlantic Ocean. It was located across the Baie de Gaspé from Forillon National Park so we had a clear view of the cliffs along the length of the peninsula. (See Around Prével slide show.) The temperature was rising a bit, and we enjoyed walking the 18. We played with a nice couple, natives of the region, and residents of the town of Gaspé. Fortunately for us, they were bilingual and had a lot to say about the area. Most interesting, they lamented the lack of people in Gaspé — and how that affected the economy and jobs. They asked us to send more visitors their way …

View from Belle-Anse: click for larger view

We would join up with them after our round in a small art gallery/cafe in Belle-Anse. We also met their daughter and her in-laws from Québec City. Very nice to have a chance to know some of the good people of Québec. They recommended a restaurant for us to try in the mountains behind Percé— the Gargantua.

That was a unique treat — the owner, a very sweet, older man, came and sat at our table. With great charm and cute broken English, he went over our dinner choices, then brought us wonderful "standard" appetizers, soup, and tiny escargot that we had to extract with a pin. Through to dessert, c'est magnifique. And a nice sunset from the mountaintop was also included.

We also were lucky enough to see a beautiful moon rise over the ocean, and this sunrise the next morning. We went out for a run, trying to capture and savor Percé in yet another way. I went along the springy boardwalk, out the concrete pier and back and forth again and again.

Back at the hotel, it was time to follow a tradition: I found a rock I fancied, signed our names, and put it with the tens of others left by previous hotel guests.

We had breakfast at a perfect spot ... Peter picked the Motel Le Mirage on the south end of Percé. It was perched on a hill with yet another angle from which to appreciate everything. With only a few more moments left in town, I felt I still hadn't gotten enough ... enough pictures, enough Percé-ness. But it was time to head out. Our parting view ...

Galleries ...
Québec — Gaspésie — Percé 1 — Percé 2 — Percé 3