We'd been to Nova Scotia before, and were blown away by how spectacular it was. So I was really looking forward to seeing a different part of it. We stopped at the visitor's center just over the New Brunswick border, near Amherst. At that point some great things were happening in the sky; I love a storm aftermath. I got directions to Joggins via local roads because our larger map didn't show enough. So we were back on the Bay of Fundy in no time.

Joggins is a small town known for its fossil finds. There are 50-meter high cliffs along Chignecto Bay where the tides have uncovered items as old as 300 million years.

We climbed down to the beach and looked around as we were hammered by a cold wind. The skies that had started to clear earlier were now dark again, and it was downright freezing. We looked all around the cliffs and tidepools, not knowing what we were looking for. You're allowed to take things that are loose, but not to chop into the cliffs. Well, no luck for us.

And once again my pano camera batteries died at an inopportune time, and once again, I thought I'd brought extras. But no. I started to panic, thinking of all the sights ahead. But in little Joggins was a neat General store. The owner pointed to a small box on a shelf. Inside were single AAA batteries. I picked out four, and was happily on my way.

Continuing west around the peninsula and along the Bay; beautiful land-to-sea vistas, and lots of that great Fundy marshland. I think the Glooscap Trail is now officially my favorite of all those in Nova Scotia — just edging out the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton. Probably when I go back there, I'll be swayed that way. But for now, I'm totally enthralled with the Fundy shore.

Our next stop was the town of Advocate Harbor on Cape Chignecto. I was anxious to find out more about this low-key area, the little that I'd read sounded great. So we pulled up to the small Cape Chignecto visitor's center. Something different, it is a Provincial park but the facility and park are lovingly run by local people. Up to the door I went and darn!— a handwritten sign: 'Sorry, we're closed while we attend the funeral of a friend.'

OK, what now? There are no roads through the park, only serious hiking trails. But we had no info about that. We could at least walk down to the shore, which was hidden from above. Down a long trail, the first clue was the driftwood! Big pieces all over the beach. Excitement rising. Then, around a bend on the gray, stony beach — it was hard to believe my eyes. Huge Red Rock outcroppings! They seemed to be out of place, having popped up on an Atlantic beach, instead of a southwestern mesa.

Thank goodness I had gotten batteries! I was alternately climbing and exploring, taking pictures with two cameras, and dancing around in exhilaration. The sea was still choppy from the storm, and the sky! It was alive! There were dark threatening clouds, fluffy white cumulus with gray underbellies, and luminous blue sky — all mixing together. And then it happened: the rare happiness wave that rolls over me when I'm overwhelmed by moment and place.

Being a driftwood fanatic I had to have some, and since we had a larger vehicle now (chosen with just this situation in mind)... I found a great piece, very large and heavy. Peter looked at me like I was crazy, then took charge and found a medium-sized piece. Nice, and acceptable to me as I regained some sanity. We had lucked out: we may not have walked to the beach if the visitor's center was open, and not knowing what was there made the wonder even more wonderful.

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After hanging out and taking it all in for as long as possible — the tide was coming in fast — we climbed back up to the visitor's center. The funeral was over and the folks were back. We talked and asked questions for awhile; the only way to see the bulk of the Cape was to hike, mostly long distances. The area really is a destination, not a place for a quick stop. So if you're looking for a great, unspoiled area to explore, Cape Chignecto is it ...

We stopped at a small store nearby, got some delicious creamy ice cream with stuff mixed in, then continued west. We took a right, and followed a dirt road some five kilometers out the Cape d'Or peninsula. Another dramatic setting, jutting out into the Bay. There were steep cliffs, a lighthouse and even a small inn. The wind was fierce and we didn't get too close to the scary precipice. Because the Cape extended out a ways, we had spectacular views up and down the coast and across the Bay to Cape Blomidon and further east. This is 'wow' country.

What we had noticed as we traveled (and were told) was that lodging was pretty scarce in this area. So looking ahead on the map, the only town of any size was Parrsboro. We drove into town and found the Maple Inn — a Victorian bed & breakfast that was once the town's hospital. We got lucky and took the last of eight rooms; it even had a bay window with sitting area.

Parrsboro is another area known for its fossil finds and for amethyst on nearby Partridge Island. It's nicely set on a river-like inlet next to the Bay, and has dramatic tidal changes because of the narrowing shorelines. There was a beautiful nine-hole golf course overlooking the Bay that had Peter salivating. Everything was beautiful in the late day sun.

The only problem with our stay in Parrsboro came during the night. There was no heat in our room. And no way to contact the innkeeper; he lived in a distant section of the house. Of course, it was the coldest night of the trip, down in the 30s. Alas, in the morning we noticed a switch on the heating vent; we had control all along, but didn't know it. The Inn's great homemade breakfast warmed us up, and got us jump-started ...

Travelling along the northern coast of the Minas Basin, on the southern side of the Cape Chignecto peninsula — is that confusing, or what? — we saw the Five Islands. These were a cluster of large and small chunks of land just off shore. We kept going, on to Truro, the "largest" city in the area, at the end of the Basin. We'd stayed in Truro on our last trip: it's the focal point of the celebrated tidal bore phenomenon. We revisited the Palliser Motel for old-time's sake, then followed the same route along the south shore of the Minas Basin (or Cobequid Bay in the easternmost end).

I love this area — the light, the mud, the water, the countryside. We crossed the Shubenacadie River, then stopped at Anthony Provincial Park again, the place we'd discovered the last time through. Still spectacular, still private! We walked out the old pier and enjoyed the wonderful atmosphere. I can't get enough — pictures, time, satisfaction — once again I left wanting more. But that's good ...

Nova Scotia cont. »